PANAITAN ISLAND

Panaitan Island lies off the western tip of Java in the Sunda Strait, the sea that links Java and Sumatra. As part of the World Heritage-listed Ujung Kulon National Park, Panaitan Island is as abundant in wildlife as it is in the rolling waves that surround its reefs. The view from the boat moored in Panaitan Bay is a surfer’s dream: peeling waves break against backdrops of luscious, unspoiled jungle. Local monkeys and deer dot the beach. Panaitan is one of the emerging surfing locations in the wave-rich Indonesian archipelago. Most famous for its relentless, heaving tubes known as Apocalypse and One Palm, the island also boasts a wide range of options to cater to all levels of surfers.
Not many people know about Panaitan in West Java in the Ujung Kulon National Park. It’s not easy to get there…from Soekarno Hatta airport in Jakarta takes around 3.5 hours to get to Charita. From Charita to Panaitan there is the choice of slow or fast boats. The fast boat takes about 2.5 hours and the slow boat takes about 5 hours if the weather is good.

An Island extension of theUjung Kulon national Park off the western tip of Java, Panaitan is a large chunk of untouched primal wilderness fringed by dense palm thickets and a wide flat table reef. You can get here by surf yacht charter or by fishing boat from Labuan or Carita. ‘Proper’ surf charters are a good option because there is no accommodation or food on the island. You can get picked up in Jakarta itself and do a 4 day trip, making this one of the easiest locations at which to access hard-core waves. It’s also among the most cost effective boat trips you can do, for the aforementioned reason and because Jakarta is well serviced by major airlines.

Waves at Panaitan are generally for experts only. Many amazing photos have come out of this place, with their freeze-frame view giving the impression that the waves are makeable when they are sometimes far from it. Quite a number of the more famous shots were taken immediately prior to the rider coming to grief on the barely covered reef.

One Palm Point

The wave that put Panaitan on the map. One of the world’s longest (up to 800yds), most perfect’most dangerous shallow left-hand barrels reels across a reef point. You need a sturdy board to get into the wave as early as possible, then set a rail and go for maximum speed. Low tide is as hairy as any surfing experience imaginable, with mid tides best, and anything from 3 ft of south to southwest swell. This wave is often unmakeably fast and hollow, and the consequences are real. Experts only unless small. Probably Panaitan’s most punishing wave.

Napalms

Probably the most frequently surfed wave at Panaitan, and with good reason. The left-hand reef here delivers barrels with mechanical perfecton, and they are more makeable than One Palm thanks to a defined channel. Take-offs are straight forward, then a lined up wall leads to a full-on before tapering off into deep water. Higher tides are best if you want to avoid the shallow second section.

Inside Lefts / Pussy’s
At the head of the inner bay are some very well lined up, fun long lefts. Generally a good warm-up spot for Panaitan proper, the lefts need a good south swell but work at any tide, although low is often best. All levels.
Inside Rights
Opposite the lefts, on the west side of the bay is a right-hand reef break that works on wet season west breezes and any swell direction. A solid south swell at low tide will get this alternative spot firing. Low to mid tides generally OK although depends on swell size. All levels depending on the day.
Illusions
Right-hand reef break with approachable take-off and variable barrel and wall sections. Advanced. It’s a wave you may never see working properly.
Apocalypse
Extremely square right-hand barrel; pull in or don’t go. Low tides are super-gnarly. Experts only.
Outside bombora waves
On the cruise to Panaitan you will see a number of outside reefs, all with potential. The rights off the western point are the most frequently ridden, but they need glassy conditions or northerly winds if they are to be worthy.
Dili Island
A 2 hour boat ride from Muara Binuange fishing port which is a good 2 hours west of Cimaja. Careful negotiation at the port can get you on a boat for a hefty price.
This reef fringed island forest is a sanctuary for the breeding of laboratory monkeys. Making landfall is an absolute no-no. depending on wind direction, check either end for reef lefts and rights. Muara Buniange itself is home to some waves worth exploring.
Tingil Island
As Above, a 2 hour boat ride from Muara Binuange fishing port which is a good 2 hours west of Cimaja. This island is also restricted for the same reasons as Dili.
The Western reef can throw up some solid left handers, but it is open to swell and gets destroyed on bigger days. Strong trade-winds are also a menace. Both of these islands are worth investigating as part of a longer boat trip from Pelabuhanratu; making a dedicated visit is costly, and the results may not justify the hassle.