Panaitan Island lies off the western tip of Java in the
Sunda Strait, the sea that links Java and Sumatra. As part of the World
Heritage-listed Ujung Kulon National Park, Panaitan Island is as
abundant in wildlife as it is in the rolling waves that surround its
reefs. The view from the boat moored in Panaitan Bay is a surfer’s
dream: peeling waves break against backdrops of luscious, unspoiled
jungle. Local monkeys and deer dot the beach. Panaitan is one of the
emerging surfing locations in the wave-rich Indonesian archipelago. Most
famous for its relentless, heaving tubes known as Apocalypse and One
Palm, the island also boasts a wide range of options to cater to all
levels of surfers.
Not many people know about Panaitan in West Java in the Ujung Kulon
National Park. It’s not easy to get there…from Soekarno Hatta airport in
Jakarta takes around 3.5 hours to get to Charita. From Charita to
Panaitan there is the choice of slow or fast boats. The fast boat takes
about 2.5 hours and the slow boat takes about 5 hours if the weather is
good.
An Island extension of theUjung Kulon
national Park off the western tip of Java, Panaitan is a large chunk of
untouched primal wilderness fringed by dense palm thickets and a wide
flat table reef. You can get here by surf yacht charter or by fishing
boat from Labuan or Carita. ‘Proper’ surf charters are a good option
because there is no accommodation or food on the island. You can get
picked up in Jakarta itself and do a 4 day trip, making this one of the
easiest locations at which to access hard-core waves. It’s also among
the most cost effective boat trips you can do, for the aforementioned
reason and because Jakarta is well serviced by major airlines.
Waves at Panaitan are generally for experts only. Many amazing photos
have come out of this place, with their freeze-frame view giving the
impression that the waves are makeable when they are sometimes far from
it. Quite a number of the more famous shots were taken immediately prior
to the rider coming to grief on the barely covered reef.
One Palm Point
The wave that put Panaitan on the map.
One of the world’s longest (up to 800yds), most perfect’most dangerous
shallow left-hand barrels reels across a reef point. You need a sturdy
board to get into the wave as early as possible, then set a rail and go
for maximum speed. Low tide is as hairy as any surfing experience
imaginable, with mid tides best, and anything from 3 ft of south to
southwest swell. This wave is often unmakeably fast and hollow, and the
consequences are real. Experts only unless small. Probably Panaitan’s
most punishing wave.
Napalms
Probably the most frequently surfed wave
at Panaitan, and with good reason. The left-hand reef here delivers
barrels with mechanical perfecton, and they are more makeable than One
Palm thanks to a defined channel. Take-offs are straight forward, then a
lined up wall leads to a full-on before tapering off into deep water.
Higher tides are best if you want to avoid the shallow second section.
Inside Lefts / Pussy’s
At the head of the inner bay are some very well lined up, fun long
lefts. Generally a good warm-up spot for Panaitan proper, the lefts need
a good south swell but work at any tide, although low is often best.
All levels.
Inside Rights
Opposite the lefts, on the west side of the bay is a right-hand reef
break that works on wet season west breezes and any swell direction. A
solid south swell at low tide will get this alternative spot firing. Low
to mid tides generally OK although depends on swell size. All levels
depending on the day.
Illusions
Right-hand reef break with approachable take-off and variable barrel
and wall sections. Advanced. It’s a wave you may never see working
properly.
Apocalypse
Extremely square right-hand barrel; pull in or don’t go. Low tides are super-gnarly. Experts only.
Outside bombora waves
On the cruise to Panaitan you will see a number of outside reefs, all
with potential. The rights off the western point are the most
frequently ridden, but they need glassy conditions or northerly winds if
they are to be worthy.
Dili Island
A 2 hour boat ride from Muara Binuange fishing port which is a good 2
hours west of Cimaja. Careful negotiation at the port can get you on a
boat for a hefty price.
This reef fringed island forest is a sanctuary for the breeding of
laboratory monkeys. Making landfall is an absolute no-no. depending on
wind direction, check either end for reef lefts and rights. Muara
Buniange itself is home to some waves worth exploring.
Tingil Island
As Above, a 2 hour boat ride from Muara Binuange fishing port which
is a good 2 hours west of Cimaja. This island is also restricted for the
same reasons as Dili.
The Western reef can throw up some solid left handers, but it is open
to swell and gets destroyed on bigger days. Strong trade-winds are also
a menace. Both of these islands are worth investigating as part of a
longer boat trip from Pelabuhanratu; making a dedicated visit is costly,
and the results may not justify the hassle.
